Coffee notes

A17

Kevin Steen

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Okay, class. Have you been stepping out of your comfort zone, experimenting with dark roasts?

If so, maybe you're ready to try a straight espresso shot. Come on, be brave!

There's a distinctly European mystique surrounding that small cup of concentrated, syrupy brew. Put on your beret and follow me.

It was the French who manufactured the first espresso machines in the mid-1800's, but the Italians were successful at marketing them, including Francesco Illy, who improved on the invention in 1935.

His machine, called the Illeta, used compressed air instead of steam, (which had been known to cause explosions!) A few years later, Achilles Gaggia created a lever-action version.

His model used a hand-operated piston to drive heated water through finely ground coffee under high pressure.

Modern espresso machines are pump driven, but still follow Gaggia's original basic design principles.

Both Illy and Gaggia are still in business today, selling modern versions of their espresso machines.

Did these innovators know that they were creating a future social and cultural ritual for their fellow Italians?

Espresso has become such an integral part of life in Italy that, 70 years later, the country boasts more than 200,000 espresso bars serving single shots of sweetened espresso several times a day.

But not only in Italy. Shops in many parts of Europe do not serve brewed coffee, only espresso.

For the Italian, there is one true test of a great shot of espresso: the crema, the caramel-coloured foam that forms on top of an espresso shot while brewing.

Since the espresso bean will only produce crema if it is less than 2 weeks old, the amount and quality of the 'crema' is a defining component of fresh espresso.

The Italians judge the quality of a shot by the length of time their sugar sits on top of the crema - five seconds is the benchmark!

Although the word 'espresso' is frequently used to refer to a dark, oily roast, it's actually a blend. The recipe varies among roasters, who guard their secrets closely.

No two blends are the same. Espresso that is intended for milk-based drinks like cappuccino or latte will have different taste criteria than the espresso intended to be consumed straight from that tiny cup.

Here in North America, we have not developed the Italian's relationship with espresso, but it is gaining an audience. Is it you?

* Kevin Steen is a true coffee lover and proprietor of Damascus Coffee House in Riverview. Do you have a coffee question for Kevin? Visit him at the shop, or call him at 855-4646.