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Kevin Steen

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Peruvians are not huge coffee consumers, unlike their coffee-producing neighbours in Brazil, who are quickly rivaling the United States for the top spot in coffee consumption.

Instead, Peruvians allow Germany, the US and Japan to import the bulk of their coffee, while they focus on a large menu of fruit drinks coming from the vast eastern rainforests, herb teas and unique alcoholic concoctions.

Today, 95 percent of Peruvian coffee is exported. Most (98 percent) is shade-grown in small plots by peasant farmers in the eastern rainforests (or "selva") among cacao, fruits and nuts, tea, tobacco and forest products.

The fluctuation of global prices affects Peru's production levels, but since the country has one of the highest ratios of certified organic coffee of any origin, it has benefitted from the rise in popularity of specialty coffees worldwide.

Francisco Pizarro discovered Peru in 1532 just as a civil war was occurring among the Incas. The Quechua Empire fell, after 300 years of influence, in 1533. Pizarro established the capital city, Lima, two years later. This city had jurisdiction over all Spanish South America except Venezuela, and Peru continued to be ruled by the Spanish until the 19th century.

After its independence, Peru had a brief period of prosperity due to the sale of Guano (a natural fertilizer) to Europe, but subsequent instability and half-hearted social and economic reforms never allowed the country to build its economy. Military coups, government corruption, rigged elections, and border disputes with Ecuador brought Peru to triple digit inflation and the brink of economic collapse by the 1980's. The Maoist guerilla group Sendero Luminoso (the Shining Path) also terrorized the Andes. By 1990, political violence was claiming 3,000 lives per year, and making it difficult to eke out a living by any means, let alone coffee production.

But the battle to build a decent life continues, and there is a concerted effort by business associations in Peru to build a robust coffee industry. Critics say Peru's coffee quality is not dependable because the country aims to produce the cheapest organic beans.

Nevertheless, I think our own Peruvian offering is an excellent light brown roast. This refreshing, organic fair trade bean has a remarkable mild, sweet and fragrant taste, and lends itself well to blending. Try a cup the next time you stop by, and we'll toast Peru's continued success.

* Kevin Steen is a true coffee lover and proprietor of Damascus Coffee House in Riverview. Do you have a coffee question for Kevin? Visit him at the shop, or call him at 855-4646.